Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Indian Market: Bringing the best to Santa Fe


Santa Fe bursts at the seams the third weekend in August* each year for the annual Indian Market. SWAIA (Southwest Association For Indian Arts) , a non-profit organization puts on this event. The 88th market takes place in the historic Santa Fe Plaza on August 22nd and 23rd. from 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM. This juried market features Native American artists and artisans, working in traditional and contemporary styles and media. There is always a waiting list for the booths.
The Santa Fe Indian Market began in 1922 as the Southwest Indian Fair run by the Museum of New Mexico and was part of the Fiesta celebration. It has evolved over almost eighty-eight years into what is today the largest and most prestigious show of its kind in the world. This year 1,144 Native artists and artisans will exhibit their wares in 674 booths. Another fifty plus booths will house food, book sales, non-profit organizations and more.
Participating artists can enter what they consider to be their best pieces for awards in eighteen categories. On Friday the submissions are judged and prizes are awarded at the Best in Show Award Ceremony at 4:30. Traditionally, the winning pieces are the first items bought on Saturday morning. Following the Best in Show event, a preview is held for SWAIA members featuring all the entries. The Best of Show tickets are $200.00 and available to Turquoise Level members and above. Both events are held at the Santa Fe Convention Center at 201 West Marcy Street. Time for Preview admission depends on your membership level. If you are not a member, don’t fret; you can join at the door.
Serious collectors, museums, gallery and shop owners and the just plain curious attend the preview. It gives people an opportunity to scope out the artists and their wares and formulate a strategy for the next day. Because the competition is fierce and supply is limited, people line up at the booths hours before they open, sometimes camping out all night. Nothing may be sold before the 7:00 AM opening time. Legend has it that some well-heeled folks pay people to stand vigil for them and they show up in time to buy.
Some really collectible artists can sell out very quickly and head for home. By noon some of the artists on the waiting list will be setting out their wares. Prices can be high; after all, these are some of the best Indian artists and artisans in the world. There are also affordable pieces or you can do what I do, and pretend you are at a museum that houses the best Indian arts and handcrafts on the planet. This year, because of the economy, rumor has it that some participants will be offering some more affordable items.
The market, which according to SWAIA, attracts somewhere around 100.000 visitors to The City Different brings about $81,000,000 to Santa Fe, about $18,000,00 of that is in sales. Some artists their entire income for the year at this event.
For hotels and restaurants, this is the busiest weekend of the year with hotels often booking up a year in advance (not so much in this new economy) and popular restaurants a few months prior to the weekend. If you did not make your lunch and dinner reservations in advance, there are still a lot of great restaurants in this town and there will be somewhere for you to eat. If you are staying at a hotel, inn or B& B, the concierge or front desk folks can help. If you are in a rental or need additional assistance, The Santa Fe Traveler, a personal concierge and trip planning service is just a phone call away at 505-474-4155.
SWAIA has some great events planned for the week. In addition there is a Native Cinema Showcase and many of the galleries in town hold special shows and openings over Indian Market week. Check with the Santa Fe Gallery Association website for a schedule.
It is a wonderful and vibrant time to be in Santa Fe. If you are not here this year, put the Santa Fe Indian Market on your schedule for next summer.

*The event is the third weekend after the first Monday in August and the actual date is set by the City of Santa Fe.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

SANTA FE: PLAYING TOURIST AT HOME

Sometimes it’s fun to play tourist in your own town. I actually do a lot of that due to the nature of my business. It is important that I know what the visitor experience to Santa Fe is. A few weeks ago we celebrated a minor National Holiday- my birthday. The celebration began on Sunday and officially ended on Thursday, Here are some of the things we did. They were great fun and you may want to do them too whether you are a visitor to the “City Different” or you live here.



JUAN SIDDI FLAMENCO THEATER COMPANY

His feet move so fast they become a blur and his intensity is palpable. Juan Siddi is a master of Flamenco. Born in Germany of a Spanish mother and Italian father, he was exposed to dance at an early age and made his professional debut at 18. In 2002, the young dancer became a soloist with Maria Benitez’s Teatro Flamenco. The company had been performing in Santa Fe during July and August for over twenty-five years. In 2007, the legendary Benitez retired and turned the stage at The Lodge at Santa Fe over to the young dancer and his newly formed Juan Siddi Flamenco Theater Company. The company consisting of Siddi, featured guest artist, Carola Zertuche (artistic director of the Theatre Flamenco San Francisco), five woman dancers and four musicians performs six nights a week. The program says the essence of Flamenco is the cante or song, here performed by a principal singer, a drummer (who occasionally joins in the singing), a supporting guitarist and the well-known Spanish Flamenco guitarist, Chuscales, born Jose Valle Fajardo. His compelling style is the perfect match for the passion that Siddi brings to the stage. Together, they are riveting.
The women are fascinating to watch. Their embroidered shawls and long slender, ruffled skirts are an integral part of the dance. Hands move gracefully, often with speed, feet tap heavily and quickly on the wooden stage as they dance in precision. But, there is no doubt that Siddi is the star. His solos bring gasps, cheers and wild applause from the audience. The experience is emotional for the spectators and it appears they are still under the dancers’ spell as they file from the theater. An evening spent with the Juan Siddi Flamenco Theater Company is a night you will long remember

LA CASA SENA
We decided to lunch here on Monday as their patio is one of the best out-door dining spots in Santa Fe. Steve had a special, a salad with seared Ahi tuna and I had the menu special which included a choice of black bean soup or salad and an entrée. I went with the soup- it's silky and delicious and I sometimes order a bowl for lunch. To celebrate the occasion, we were going to indulge in one my favorite desserts in town, the Dobos Torte, but it was recently removed from the menu, a great loss. Lunch by the fountain was really tranquil and special.

COYOTE CAFÉ CANTINA
Tuesday evening we decided on a casual dinner at the Rooftop Cantina at the renowned Coyote Café. The Cantina with its interesting food and drink menus is always a fun place and the prices are reasonable. Luckily we moved from our original table due to the arrival of a large party- we were concerned they'd be loud. Thunder and lightened preceded torrential rains. The first table was completely open to the elements, we would have been drenched. Our corner table was mostly sheltered. I stayed dry- Steve’s back got soaked and by the end of the meal. our feet were on wet cement We made it through dinner and decided to have dessert at the restaurant bar downstairs- it was time to dry off. It was a wonderful pre-birthday evening.

For Wednesday, the actual birthday, we planned a full day, come share it with us. It was a really special day- and you can recreate it when you visit Santa Fe.

GEORGIA O’KEEFFE HOME AND STUDIO TOUR
I’ve wanted tour Georgia O’Keeffe’s home in Abiquiu for years. The tours always filled up way in advance and my life was hard to schedule months or even weeks out, so I never got there. At a recent breakfast at the O’Keeffe Museum, I saw a newly released video, "Georgia O’Keeffe, Houses of Her Own" about O’Keeffe’s Abiquiu and Ghost Ranch homes. The film really piqued my interest, I was determined to tour the home and studio. What a great thing to do on my birthday. (Due to its deteriorated condition, the Ghost Ranch house is not open to the public. My dream is to someday get special dispensation to tour it.)
We were able to book space on the 11 AM home tour the week before. In the past, due to the tours popularity (there are a lot of O'Keeffe fans out there) we would have been placed on a waiting list. This year, probably a combination of the economy and the newly expanded tour schedule, we were able to get in at the last minute.
We arrived at the O’Keeffe Home tour office at the Abiquiu Inn with time to spare. Steve and I had talked to Joyce, the woman who runs the office, for years, making tour reservations, bu we had never met her. Our early arrival gave us time to get to know the busy Joyce a little. She knew the woman Abiquiu residents affectionately referred to as Miss O'Keeffe, personally. Her family were neighbors and the artist would visit their home. She has some great stories. When the rest of our group arrived we were directed to a small bus (maximum tour size 12,) and driven to the property.
The house is on a mesa overlooking the Chama River Valley, the mountains and O’Keeffe’s beloved and often painted White Place. The expansive views are inspiring, they made me want to pick up a paintbrush. When Georgia O’Keeffe first saw the traditional adobe (circa 1790), it was a ruin owned by the Catholic Church. They did not want to sell it. She really wanted this house, she claims she fell in love with the black door, and she was persistent. She negotiated with the Church for years and they finally relented and sold it to her with the stipulation that she keep the original structure intact. If they had not sold it, the house, then in terrible repair, would eventually have collapsed.
O’Keeffe wanted a second home in the area as she could not successfully grow vegetables at Ghost Ranch about 15 miles up the road. She loved her gardens and canned and froze what she could not immediately consume. The freezing and canning were done in her kitchen and pantry. Her 50's appliances (which she retained until she left the home in 1984) were top of the line when she moved in.
The home’s sparse furnishings are a study in 50’s modernity. and represent the big names in Mid-century furniture. Pieces by Herman Miller, Charles Eames, and Eero Saarinen are scattered throughout the house and a Noguchi shade reigns over the simple dining-room table and is the only lampshade in the house, O’Keeffe favored bare bulbs.
O’Keeffe, was a rock collector and there are rocks all over the house, they are an integral part of the décor. I, too collect rocks and scatter them around the house, so I appreciate these touches. Also on view are some of the skulls she is famous for painting.
The guided-tour is an hour and we wish it had been longer. We would have enjoyed more time to wander the beautiful grounds where salt cedars from the Mid-east, poisonous Jimson Weed (Datura), a flower she sometimes painted and sculpted junipers make for an unusual landscape. At the end of the hour we got back on the bus and were driven back to our starting point hungry and ready for lunch.

ICE’S FARM AND TEAROOM

The perfect lunch spot after our trip back to the 50’s is the retro Ice’s Tea Room in Alcalde, about ½ hour southeast of the O’Keeffe Home and Studio. I had heard about this place for years, but had never gotten there. We were having a day of firsts. The farm grows organic produce, herbs and edible flowers and what’s in season shows up at lunch. They share the farm’s surplus bounty at the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market. I used the term retro as Ice's reminded us of family and farm tables from when we were growing up. The price-fixed, 5-course tea/lunch is a great value. There are only three tables and reservations are required. We had a great time eating and watching the many hummingbirds dining at the multiple-feeders outside the dining-porch. Ice's is right nextdoor to Los Luceros, former home of heiress Mary Cabot Wheelwright and new home to Sundance, NM.

GERONIMO
Celebrating my birthday dinner on the portal at Geronimo has become a Santa Fe tradition. We had not dined with the new Asian/French/New American fusion menu and we loved it, but then chef/owner Eric DiStefano is a genius. And the front of the house runs incredibly well too thanks to long-time managing partner, Chris Harvey. What a perfect end to a memorable day.

Monday, August 3, 2009

SANTA FE: DINING AL FRESCO

The Patio at The Pink Adobe, Santa Fe, NM





Ambiance can make or break a great restaurant. When the weather warms up, both Santa Feans and visitors take advantage of our beautiful sunny weather (over 300 days a year) and dine al fresco. Even in summer, the breezes make dining outside the perfect option. There are restaurants that offer outdoor dining right on the street, but my favorites are secluded patios and courtyards hidden from public view. Here are a few of my favorites. (Note: We're not talking food here it's the ambiance we're looking at. To find out more about these restaurants and their menus, check out their websites, which are all listed.)

La Casa Sena has what may be the best courtyard dining spot in town. Don Juan Sena bought a small building on Palace Avenue in1796 and by the 1830s had built a family compound which surrounds this beautiful courtyard with its stately trees and bubbling fountain. The Territorial-style building is home to trendy boutiques (first floor) and offices (second floor) and La Casa Sena Restaurant and its offshoots: The Cantina, The Wine Shop and Cellar Lounge. Lunch or dinner is special under the shade of the huge old trees amidst the lush flower gardens.

SantaCafe also offers courtyard dining for lunch and dinner. The former Padre Gallegos House built between 1857 and 1862 boasts a glassed-over well in the bar. It’s a great conversation piece. According to Bobby Morean, one of the restaurant’s owners, Gallegos had so many enemies, he did not trust that the outside well would provide safe, potable water. Their tented courtyard and covered portal offer a shady respite at lunch and protection from the summer monsoons in the evening. It is a popular spot

The Compound on historic Canyon Road, home to many of the city’s over 200 art galleries, has a peaceful, stucco-wall enclosed patio that makes you feel like your are dining somewhere in France or Italy. There are fruit trees, ivy and large pots bursting with white geraniums and white petunias all around the intimate enclosed space. It is THE spot to enjoy chef/owner Mark Kiffen’s James Beard Award-winning food in warm weather.

The patio at Luminaria, the restaurant at the Inn and Spa at Loretto, makes you feel as if you are dining on a Caribbean Island. It is the perfect place for a romantic dinner au deux. Enjoy a tropical drink or a Margarita and relax while you savor the perfect ambiance. There is an outdoor-fireplace where wood fires burn on cooler evenings.

The Pink Adobe is the oldest restaurant in Santa Fe. The infamous local artist Rosalea Murphy started it in 1944 as a place to sell burgers, enchiladas and wonderful dishes from her hometown, New Orleans. It quickly became a gathering place for members of the Santa Fe art scene. The restaurant was family owned until 2007 when it was acquired by the Inn of the Five Graces, a Relais and Chateaux lodging. The menu has changed, but many old favorites like Steak Dunigan are still there. The newly renovated, flag-stone patio boasts a fire-pit in the center for cooler evenings. This tree-shaded gem is a great place to enjoy good company and great food and drink.

The O’Keeffe Café occupies a historic brick Territorial building that housed Union soldiers during the Civil War. Unlike the other places mentioned here, its outdoor dining area is not hidden away. Because the building is set back from the street, the outdoor patio, shaded by mature trees feels very private. The sense of history in this place is palpable. What a great place to enjoy fabulous food and sample the by-the-glass wine offerings from their cruvinet.

With all the wonderful patios and courtyards to choose from in Santa Fe, next time you dine out, dine out.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

IRELAND - A Special Birthday

Corcomroe Abby 2008 with our Friends, Carmel & Michael Joyce
(Carmel was at the 1997 Birthday picnic)

My birthday is a National Holiday in my house. It’s celebrated anywhere from two days to a week. This year the big day is a tour of the O’Keeffe Home in Abiquiu, followed by lunch at Ice’s Tea House in Alcalde, north of Santa Fe. Dinner will be at the fabulous Geronimo- my birthday tradition in Santa Fe. But, I digress. I want to reminisce about what may have been my best birthday ever, spent in the West of Ireland.
It is 1997 and I have a dilemma. My husband, Steve, will be with a tour group in Durango, Colorado on my birthday. I could drive 7 hours each way to have dinner with him- a depressing prospect! (Not him- the drive) Then, an invitation arrived from a friend to visit Ireland all expenses paid. I felt somewhat bad as Steve had always wanted to go to Ireland- but when I weighed all the options, Ireland won hands down. Sorry, (Don’t feel too sorry for him, we went together the next year.)
As the plane descended at Shannon Airport, I looked out the window and saw green fields and stone walls. It dawned on me why I had always loved Block Island- it looked like Ireland. (A place I had never been- at least not in this lifetime, but more on that later.) Driving north to Oughterard, County Galway, I was amazed to see palm trees growing at the side of the road- this was not a tropical clime. I discovered later that the Gulf Stream creates the proper climate conditions for this. Another surprise was the pastel houses in the towns we passed through
Anyway, it was love at first sight- but it really wasn’t. You may have trouble with this concept, but I kept getting affirmations that I had been here before. Sitting on the shore of Galway Bay looking across to the Burren in County Clare I flashed on a time I had been there waiting for a boat to come get me. Then, there were the places like Poulnabrone (the dolmen) and Corcomroe Abby (both in the Burren), where I broke into spontaneous tears and could not fathom why. The only illogical (and I don't mean logical) explanation I could come to was I had an unexplained connection to these places. But again, I digress.
The story for this blog is the actual day of my birthday, July 22nd. Five of us were invited to go out on our friend Joe’s boat on Lough Corrib. The destination,Inchagoill Island. We took a picnic lunch and some vino. The ride out was beautiful. There are reported to be at least 350 islands scattered throughout the 35-mile long lake. We passed one with a large house that was supposedly belonged to some rock star- who knows. We waived as we went by. We docked at an obscure beach Joe knew and set up our picnic. It was perfect. After lunch we took a short hike, destination a church ruin dating to the 5th Century. On my way into the wood’s I tripped over an incredible rock. I collect rocks but couldn’t take it with me on the walk- it was too heavy, I mentally marked the spot so I could come back for it. We arrived at the ruins of St. Patrick’s Church rumored to have been built by that venerable saint. It is believed that St. Patrick’s nephew, Limnic, is buried there. An inscribed stone at the sight dates to the 5th century and is believed to have the oldest Roman writing existing in Ireland today and 2nd oldest in Europe (outside the Catacombs in Rome). What a special place- you could feel the history. Also there, are the ruins of the 12th century Church of the Saint.
We left the ruins and to the Guinness Tower, a remnant from when the brewing family owned the island. We climbed the low tower and took photos. Two of us decided to take a short cut back to the beach. It turned out to be a questionable decision- it definitely wasn’t a short cut, we got lost in virgin woods. Luckily we found the shore and we began to circle the island knowing we had to find our beach eventually. It was a beautiful walk. Upon returning to our beach, I went in search of my stone. Amazingly, I went right to it and that 5-pound beauty came home from Ireland in my luggage. You can tell this was a bygone era. These days it would cost me to bring that rock home. Then, it was time for cake and gifts. I received two that I treasure to this day. A Sheela Na Gig, made by Joe, a pagan fertility goddess found engraved on churches throughout Ireland and O’Flarity, a leprechaun who is watching my back as I type this.
Reluctantly, towards the end of the afternoon, we left the island and returned to the 20th Century. Another precious gift from Joe was a video of that day that gets played every year, on you guessed it, my birthday.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

PERSONAL CONCIERGE THE SANTA FE TRAVELER WAY

“What is it that you do?” is a question I hear frequently.
The Santa Fe Traveler is a personal concierge and destination management service. It is apparently an unusual service, when I Googled to find people in the field (thought I could pick their brains) I didn’t come up with much. I found personal concierges who are organizers, I found personal assistants, I found concierges that specialize in people living in condos and ones specializing in the workplace. But apparently, destination concierges are few and far between.
What is it we do? Basically, The Santa Fe Traveler caters to the needs of people visiting The City Different. The beauty of it is, if we can’t do something personally chances are, we know someone who can, and we can get you set up, but I’m getting ahead of myself. The question was: what do we do? Perhaps the best answer is on our web-site.
In a nutshell, we do all the things that a hotel concierge can be expected to do and more. A hotel concierge is busy dealing with lots of guests. If you have needs that exceed what the hotel can reasonably be expected to meet, we are here. If you are staying at lodging establishment that does not have a concierge, call us. Yes the front desk folks and innkeepers are there to help, but a good concierge is worth their weight in gold. We are specialists in the hospitality field; experts on Santa Fe and the surrounding area. We’ll know things they don’t and have connections they don’t have. Staying in a house, casita or condo? We can help make your stay perfect. It’s those little details that count.
We are an intrepid researchers and very persistent. If what you want is out there, we will find it for you. For instance, want to rent a Ferrari in Santa Fe? Good luck! There are none- but if you don’t mind the expense, we will get one here for you.
In a time of economic downturn why do you want to hire us? One reason is we’ll pamper you. Another is, we can actually save you money. Like any travel professionals, we get better rates on a lot of things.
We do not replace your travel agent. We work with them to help design a memorable Santa Fe visit for you. They know you, they know travel and we know Santa Fe. What a winning combo. If you don’t routinely use an agent, we can work with you and get to know your preferences. Every client is asked to fill out a comprehensive questionnaire so that we can get to know you your likes and dislikes.. Don’t want to take the time to fill it out? That’s okay, too.
If you’re coming to Santa Fe, contact us and we will design the perfect trip for you.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

SANTA FE'S INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART MARKET: ATREAT FOR THE EYES


This weekend, Saturday July 11th and Sunday July 12th, we'll be heading up to Santa Fe's Museum Hill for the sixth annual .International Folk Art Market The 2009 Market features over 140 artists from over 45 countries around the world. Vendors set up tables in huge tents around Millman Plaza (home to the International Museum of Folk Art and the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture).

We have a plan of action when we go. We start at the tents in the parking lot, work our way through these and climb the stairs to Millman Plaza. Once there, if the beat is great we stop and listen to the catchy world music for a while or watch the dancers. At this point, it's probably time for a snack. We'll head down to the International Food Bazaar where we'll grab a bite to eat after checking out all he food vendors to see what tempts us. If you want less exotic fare, the Museum Hill Café also will be serving food all weekend. Then, stomachs full, we go into each and every tent up on the plaza to see what exotic and beautiful wares the artisans have brought.

I don’t buy a lot as my budget is small, but I always leave with something special. My first year there I got a telephone-wire basket from South Africa for me and some embroidered purses from Guatemala that I gave as gifts. The next year, (it’s always close to my birthday) I bought myself a present, a wonderful hand-carved Zapotec angel from Oaxaca, Mexico. The angel has her hands extended and she is holding a bird. The wings and the bird are detachable. She sits in our guestroom on a primitive bench welcoming visitors. The following year I bought a piece of flowered china from Poland that, alas, broke last year- I may just have to replace it. Last year we both worked all weekend and missed the Market, but we will be back this year, cash is hand.

The festivities actually kick off Thursday evening with a free concert in Santa Fe’s famous Plaza in the heart of the old city from 6 –8:30. Featured Afro-Cuban artist, Bobi Céspedes will wow the crowd with her singing and drumming. Opening for Céspedes will be Santa Fe’s own Mathew Andrae, who was a sensation on YouTube last year singing Sweet Celine.

A procession of the artisans in the colorful attire of their native lands starts the festivities at Friday evening's Artist’s Reception and Preview Benefit. Meet and talk to the artists while you sample the eclectic world-cuisine hors d’oeuvres, sip wine and again, listen to the Afro-Cuban sounds of Bobi Céspedes. If you are a collector or serious shopper, this is a great time to preview the crafts that will be on sale on Saturday. Tickets, which admit two, are $250.00. This ticket also features admission for one person to the early bird shopping on Saturday morning. If you are a collector, a dealer or you want first crack at the wares, you can get an Early Bird ticket for $50.00. This allows you to arrive at 7:30 and shop a less crowed Market until the doors open to everyone at 9:00. Early bird shuttles start at 7:00 AM and if you don’t have a ticket they will be sold at the shuttle site according to Market publicist Clare Hertel.

As cars are not allowed up on the Hill for the entire weekend, continuous shuttles run and are included in the admission price. The fist year we went, I was reluctant to ride the bus, but it was the only way I could get to the Market. I hate crowded buses (probably traces back to all the crowded buses and subways I rode in NYC as a child), but I bit the bullet and discovered that the air-conditioned buses were fine and that the ride was short. A bonus is people are friendly and you can chat with a total stranger. I suggest buying your tickets prior to the Market. There is a discount if you purchase them prior to the event and you won’t have to wait on line to boy them at the gate.

While children are free the entire weekend, Sunday is Family Day at the Market. Last year they started the Passport Program for kids. Upon arrival, they can follow the yellow footprints to a booth that will issue their passports- no photo required. As they go from booth to booth they can talk with the artisans and get their passports stamped with the flag of the artisan’s home country. This year, for the first time, there will be teen-aged docents from several youth groups who will give hour-long tours of the Market, to children aged 5 and up (passports in hand). When they exit the Market, each child that attends the Market will be given a commemorative pin.
If you are in Santa Fe this weekend- either because you live here or you are visiting, head up to Museum Hill. You’ll really have a great time. I did.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

THE UNEXPECTED BLOG


WHEN 140 CHARACTERS JUST WON’T DO

A FRIDAY NIGHT GALLERY WALK ON SANTA FE’S CANYON ROAD

Friday nights in Santa Fe offer lots of opportunities to view art for free. The three downtown museums (Georgia O’Keeffe, NM Museum of Art and The New Mexico History Museum) are open and free from 5 to 8. Then there is the long-standing tradition of galleries both being open and hosting openings on Fridays. This is particularly true for summer weekends; add a

holiday and Canyon Road is hopping. Historic Canyon Road, one of the oldest streets in a very old town is home to the city’s largest concentration of galleries.

Art Factoid #1: This small city is home to over two hundred galleries.

Art Factoid #2: Little old Santa Fe is ranked as the 2nd largest art market (by sales) in the US (according the UNM School of Business) after NYC.

We rarely get to have a relaxing Friday night stroll up Canyon Road. My husband Steve and I have been in the hospitality industry since arriving in Santa Fe 5 ½ years ago. A Friday off has been a luxury for us (as are Saturdays and Sundays). I am now self-employed and Steve had a rare Friday off so we decided to play tourist. We got the listing of gallery openings from the Pasatiempo, the magazine insert in the Friday Santa Fe New Mexican and made a plan. We would do our gallery tour on Canyon Road. If we could not find a parking space we would go to Plan B. In a town where finding a parking place can be harder than panning for gold, we were sure we would be implementing Plan B (whatever that was). But the parking angels were with us tonight. We found a space a few doors down from out first stop, the historic El Zaguan. Artist in Residence, Brenda J. Roper’s has a show of her acrylic over oil paintings. Her 12” square pictures were colorful and affordable, I lover her trio of “purses”. A fellow- attendee was attempting to convince her to raise her prices. I hope she doesn’t. This was actually art I could afford (if I did not need to replace my ailing computer). In this town that is rare. I loved chatting with fellow Cancer (and fellow cuspers at that) Brenda and we hatched a plan to have lunch and check out galleries together. After a walk through the lush El Zaguan garden it was on up the road.

We were in and out of a few galleries checking out the art. What little I know about art stops at around 1920, but I sure know what I like- so no need to tarry. We were drawn up the street by the sound of live music- fiddle and guitar, and a beautiful alto beckoned us. We found the duo, Fletcher and John on the porch of the Waxlander Gallery. I loved the riotously colorful watercolors of Waxlander Gallery owner, 78-year-old Phyllis Kapp and the colors and textures of Lori Daniel’s assemblages on old tin ceiling tiles. Would love to own something by each of these women! We nibbled a little, chatted a little and then headed on up the road.

What was going to be a quick stop to say hi to Chris Harvey, front-of- the-house partner at the well-known Geronimo Restaurant turned into a longer stay. Chris invited us to have appetizers and wine at the bar. The tiny barroom was packed with people who were unable to book into the sold-out dining room and were eating here. Eric DeStefano, former Geronimo chef and current chef/owner at Coyote Café is back as chef/owner and the new fusion (French, Asian and creative American) menu looks terrific. Ran into former guests from my concierge days who said this was the best meal they’ve had in town. They’ve been coming to Santa Fe for years and they eat out a lot (I know, I used to make their reservations).

After the apps, we made our way down Canyon Road to the car and headed home into a glorious sunset. A great Friday night in Santa Fe and the price was right!

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

TEN GREAT ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIES IN SANTA FE

Note: Please excuse the appearance of the text below. Blog-spot is being uncooperative. I wanted to get this up and not wait until the gremlins in the computer decide to behave.

Coming to Santa Fe with the kids in tow? We don’t have easy-fixes like Disney World, Sea World, Busch Gardens or Six Flags, but what we have is definitely better! It may take a little imagination and advanced planning, but you can design a trip that is sure to excite even the grumpiest child. My seven-year-old grandson is gifted (not just a grandmother’s bragging- it’s documented!) and needs to be challenged. In a school essay on vacations this year, he named New Mexico as his favorite place to visit- and believe me, it has nothing to do with the fact that his grandparents live here. I planned a really great trip for them last year Here are ten great places that the entire family will enjoy.

THE SANTA FE CHILDREN’S MUSEUM is a great place for families with young children to visit. (I confess, this one is more fun for the kids, parents will get their enjoyment from the smiles on the youngsters’ faces- although there are activities that parents can do and enjoy.) It is an intimate place with hands-on inter-active stations that will delight the young. The museum has enthusiastic volunteers who will engage the kids in activities. When done inside, explore the grounds, which offer more fun activities, including a green house with a menagerie of small critters and an area with giant percussion instruments. There is an admission charge. Hours are Wednesday to Saturday 10-5 and Sunday Noon -5.

THE INTERNATIONAL MUSEUM OF FOLK ART is located on Museum Hill™(Camino Lejo). The Girard Wing’s permanent exhibit features colorful folk art from more than 100 nations. Children love this wing. There are lots of dioramas loaded with small colorful people and things that kids can relate to. I have heard kids excitedly saying “Mommy, Daddy, look at this, look at this.” Best comment ever at the angels and devils showcase. “Mommy, Mommy, there’s angels and devils, where’s God?”It is a bright, happy place and I always leave with a smile on my face. Hours: 10-5, Closed Mondays (except between Memorial and Labor Days).

BANDELIER NATIONAL MONUMENT located about an hour north and west of Santa Fe, offers a view into the past of New Mexico. First settled circa 12th century, the ancestors of the current-day Cochiti Indians lived here until the mid-fifteen hundreds. You can see pueblo ruins, explore the caves via ladders, see petroglyphs and hike the extensive trails. Kids will really enjoy climbing the ;adders into the caves. Hours will vary seasonally and the Visitor’s Center suggests calling them or checking the website, which they say, has up-to-date information. They are open daily except Christmas and New Year’s Days. There is a per car admission charge unless you have a National Parks Pass.
EL RANCHO DE LOS GOLONDRINAS a living history village offers visitors a journey into New Mexico’s past. “The Ranch of the Swallows" now a living history museum, dates from the early 1700s and was an important paraje or stopping point along the famous Camino Real, (the Royal Road) from Mexico City to Santa Fe. They are open weekdays in April and May by reservation only (and there are a lot of school groups on field trips). On weekends they have special activities and festivals. On the first weekend of the month June – October there is a themed festival (check with concierge for schedule. Visit on weekends if you can. They have docents in period costumes and live demonstrations of traditional crafts and life skills. When my grandkids were there they got to build mini-adobe blocks which were going to be dried and used at the Fiesta de los Niños (The Festival of the Children) weekend towards the end of the summer. Check the schedule on their website for the date. There is an admission charge. Open June 1- September 30 for self-guided tours from 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM.

RANDALL DAVEY AUDUBON CENTER sits at the top of Upper Canyon Road at an elevation of 7500. Families can hike and explore nature at this local outpost of the National Audubon Society. There are 135 acres of land and it is surrounded by thousands of acres of National Forest and the protected lands of the Santa Fe River Watershed. The center offers guided bird walks on its two nature trails. There are over130 species of rare and common birds- apparently someone has counted- as well as lots of plants and wildlife. A great trick with kids is to get them to sit quietly in the wood and see what animals will com by. If one shows up, they will remember forever. Take a picnic and spend the day. There is a nominal admission charge. They are open daily from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM.

SKIING: Both the SKI SANTA and TAOS SKI VALLEY offer excellent downhill skiing and snowboarding in winter. The season starts sometime around Thanksgiving, snow permitting, and goes into early April. Call the individual area or check their website for the schedule- it changes yearly. The Santa Fe area is 45 minutes from town and the Taos ski area about 2hrs, 15 minutes. Both offer lessons, rentals and packages. Cross-country skiing is also an option in Santa Fe. There are also cross-country skiing, snow shoeing, sledding and sleigh rides when the snow is on the ground.
FLY-FISHING
is a great activity for the whole family. The kids get really excited when they catch a fish. The Pecos River is a terrific place for a day of angling. Don’t forget to buy your licenses! Need instruction or a guide, call us and we can help you arrange for this service.
RAFTING is a fun activity with kids. There are several companies that offer full and half-day trips on the Rio Grande River. Float trips are available to children about age 4 and up and the Race Course, with lots of Class Two rapids is open to children 6 and older. I would not advise taking children under the age of four. While safety equipment is provided, the child must be old enough to obey orders and to sit still for over an hour- if they don’t you could go into the river.. The rafting season is from mid-April until Labor Day.
INDIAN PUEBLO CULTURAL CENTER The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center’s mission statement is: “To preserve and perpetuate Pueblo culture and to advance understanding by presenting with dignity and respect, the accomplishments and evolving history of the Pueblo people of New Mexico.” The museum’s permanent exhibition offers a historical overview of the Pueblo peoples. They also have a contemporary arts and crafts section that showcases the work of Pueblo artists and artisans. The Center has Pueblo dancers on weekends. Stop in at their restaurant where you can sample Pueblo foods if you are adventurous or eat the usual.
FORT UNION NATIONAL MONUMENT
is about an hour and a half north of Santa Fe. The fort was established in 1851 to watch over the Santa Fe Trail an important trade route from Missouri. During its forty-year history, it functioned as a military garrison, territorial arsenal, and military supply depot for the southwest. It was abandoned when the railroad made it obsolete. The site offers a 1.6-mile trail around the ruins. There are standing adobe walls and foundations from many of the former structures and there are explanations of the buildings, the people and the life they led. It is really fun and informative. It will give the whole family a sense of history. Visitors may opt to do a shorter .5-mile tour. The largest visible network of wheel-ruts from Santa Fe Trail is at Fort Union. They are open year-round From Memorial Day to Labor day hours are 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM. The rest of the year they are 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM. They close Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. There is a small admission charge unless you have a National Parks Pass.


And while we’re on the subject of kids in Santa Fe, here are a few really kid friendly restaurants. When my grandsons arrive at the airport in Albuquerque, their first words are “Kiddy Corral, Kiddy Corral!” This is the outside dining area at the back of COWGIRL BAR AND GRILL a landmark in Santa Fe. The KC has kid-friendly play stuff. Parents can sip Margs while the kids have a ball. Make a reservation, a lot of locals go here and at dinner the demand for its limited space can be high. If the kids like pizza, the very casual ILVICCINO WOOD-FIRED PIZZA is a casual place close to the Plaza. Order at the counter and they deliver to the table. In the summer, the enclosed patio is fun. If you want something a little more formal, two places offer entertainment during dinner that older kids (at least 5 unless your kids are very well-behaved) might enjoy. THE CANTINA AT LA CASA SENA does what they call the Best of Broadway. The servers are all entertainers and they sing for your supper. I always leave in a really up mood- it’s fun here. LOS MAYAS has entertainment nightly and the schedule varies. The menu offers what I call “main-course” Mexican cuisine and New Mexican options. Fernando Antillas, the owner is a very warm man and welcoming host. You will feel like family. There are other places that are kid-friendly, but these are places that my grandsons really enjoy, so I wanted to pass them on. The Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau offers an extensive list of dining options.















































Monday, June 22, 2009

THE HIGH ROAD TO TAOS



Sancturario de Chimayó




Looking for an escape to the old-world? Take the High Road to Taos. and come back of the Low Road. Winding through the Sangre de Christo Mountains, the trip from Santa Fe to Taos is very scenic and the views are spectacular when you get up into the mountains. Be aware that the road numbers change a lot. Keep following the signs for Taos. The first stop on the High Road is the historic village of Chimayó. Stop at the Santuario de Chimayó, a historic church famous for healing miracles and at the weaving shops. Chimayó weaving is a weaving style that bears the village’s name and has been passed down through a few families for hundreds of years., most notably the Ortega's and the Trujillos. Both of these families have shops you can visit. The road winds through old mountain villages that were settled hundreds of years ago by Hispanic immigrants to the New World. Rumor has it that until the mid-1960’s, English was rarely spoken here and that the people spoke a Spanish that had close ties to 15th Century Castilian. Truchas, a bit up the road from Chimayó was where Robert Redford filmed The Milagro Beanfield Wars in 1988. At the village of Las Trampas, take a right and view the historic church circa 1760, a great example of New Mexican rural ecclesiastical architecture. It is just steps from the High Road. Artists who cannot afford Santa Fe rents have moved up here and opened galleries. A highlight of the year is the High Road Art Tour held over two weekends in September. At Peñasco, make a left onto NM 518 (a right turn takes you towards Las Vegas NM). You will now be driving through the natural beauty of the Kit Carson National Forest with its Alpine landscape and beautiful views. When the road meets 68 at Rancho de Taos, turn right and Taos is minutes up the road. I recommend taking a jog to the left and at the blinking light turn left for the historic Church of San Francisco de Assisi dating to the late 18th Century. This adobe structure was painted by Georgia O'Keeffe and photographed by Ansel Adams and many other artists have been inspired by it. Stop at the Taos Visitor’s Center on the right as you come into town. They have lots of helpful information to offer travelers. Taos is a charming town, home to artists and other creative types (hello Julia Roberts) and home to the historically significant Taos Pueblo, a must visit on any trip to here. This the perfect summer for a visit to Taos. They are celebrating the Taos Summer of Love, a commemoration of the 40th anniversary of the 1969 movie, Easy Rider, which was partially filmed here. Taos is also home to actor/artist Dennis Hopper, co-writer of the film with Peter Fonda (they both starred in it). The cinematographer was the late, great Lazlo Kovacs (an honoree at the Santa Fe Film Festival several years ago). For this celebration, Hopper has curated two exhibits at the Harwood Museum on LeDoux Street. One is an exhibit of his own work, "Selected Photographs and Paintings" and the other, "Forty Years of Friendship: LA to Taos," featuring five Taos artists (transplants via LA). There are also other planned events and a schedule on The Summer of Love website. To get a feel for the town, stroll the streets around the small, inviting Plaza. Check out the historic La Fonda Hotel. In particular, Bent Street is very charming. Shop, dine, people watch. One of my favorite places in Taos is the Millicent Rodgers Museum, northwest of town. Millicent Rodgers was an heiress (Standard Oil), a jewelry designer and a collector of Native American and Spanish Colonial art. If you like these genres, the museum is a MUST. The collection is superb! Other historic attractions include the Kit Carson House and the Martinez Hacienda. The Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, fifth highest bridge in the US, is short distance northwest of Taos on Rte 64. You can park and walk on the bridge, the views of the Gorge from here are spectacular, but the bridge vibrates and not for those sho are faint of heart or have height issues. When you are done exploring Taos, return to Santa Fe on the Low Road, which wends through the Rio Grande Valley. If you prefer, you can go up the Low Road and back down the High Road- personal preference. They both get you there and the old song is true. The trip takes about 1-½ hours (less if traffic is light) on the Low Road, about two hours on the High Road.

Friday, June 19, 2009

THE ACCIDENTAL LOGO



You know the old joke about God and plans. Here is another punch line. I think every business needs a logo. I still have one great business idea that is on hold due to lack of a symbol. I am too passionate about The Santa Fe Traveler to let it suffer that fate. However, there were logo issues. I thought what I wanted was simple, but the reality was that no artist I spoke with got the vision. Here is the vision. I wanted a wheelie suitcase; handle up, perched on its wheels. On the body of the suitcase, there was the same style geometric of design found on Pueblo pottery. Artist one gave me a 50s style suitcase in green. Next. The second one was not much better. To fire the second designer with no hard feelings, I told her a friend was designing the logo. Light-bulb moment- I did have a friend who was a talented graphic designer. I called her, explained what I wanted. We had a brainstorming meeting and I waited. What showed up was a wheelie with a Pueblo style pot in the center. I explained that this was not what I was wanting and was told that I had one more chance and if it was not right… I said that I really needed someone who could work with me until I had the logo of my dreams. We agreed to disagree. She still isn’t speaking to me.

Enter Margot, a very talented artist. Margo was with me for the duration. The first design was again a pot in the middle of a wheelie- but the wheelie had exquisite detail. I was afraid to tell her it was not what I wanted. When I finally got up the courage and told her it was not what I had envisioned, she said not to worry- it was a process. Wow! Someone who got it. The thing is, Margot is a free spirit and disappeared in the middle of our project and I still have not heard from her. I needed a logo for my business cards. Finally let go and decided that I could have a business card without a logo.

Meanwhile, I signed up for Twitter. I needed something to replace to dreaded brown box. I don’t have a flattering photo. I have only once met a camera that loved me and that was wielded by a boyfriend who presumably loved me, too. So, my photo was not going to be my Twitter Avatar.

One day in late spring, my husband and I took his camera around Santa Fe and took photos. We got one of a weathered blue gate. We put it up on Twitter. We needed a photo for my blog site, up went the gate. I wanted a photo on my web site; the gate again came to my rescue. It was time to create a business card and lo and behold, the old gate yet again. What I wanted was something that was unique to the Santa Fe area, accidentally, I got it.



Tuesday, June 16, 2009

TEN FESTIVE REASONS TO VISIT SANTA FE

There are a lot of annual events in Santa Fe. Ten is ten and I had to choose. I missed the excellent Thirsty Ear Festival which took place last weekend. This event brings a diverse range of music to town for two days. During the summer, El Rancho de Golondrinas has festivals and special weekends; there are art events such as ArtFeast and many other offerings. To see the whole schedule for annual events go to the Santa Fe Convention and Visitors Bureau.

  1. International Folk Art Market The 6th annual market is July 11-12 (it is traditionally held the 2nd weekend in July) Artisans from around the world bring their wares to juried event and standards are high. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, this is a great event; colorful, lively and fun. I enjoy viewing the beautiful items and chatting with the artists and there is world music and international food available. It’s held on Museum Hill, home of two State museums, the International Folk Art and Indian Arts and Culture and the admission price gets you into the event. You can’t park on the Hill that weekend, but they run shuttle buses all day long. There is an admission charge.
  2. Indian Market is always the third weekend in August (this year August 22 and 23) and the population of Santa Fe swells exponentially during this event. Rooms book as early as a year in advance and don’t come without a restaurant reservation unless you don’t mind waiting a long time. Streets around the Plaza are closed off and brimming with people. Serious collectors of Indian art come from all over for the chance to buy the best. I go for the show. Besides being able to view some of the best Native American art in the country, you can also be part of the festivities. If you are a fan of silver and turquoise jewelry (and I am) watching vendors and attendees alike sport their incredible pieces is worth the trip. You can fuel up on Pueblo and Navajo fare in the food area behind the First National Bank.
  3. Spanish Market This year, the fourth weekend in July (the 25th and 26th) brings the 58th Traditional Spanish Market. This event held in the Plaza showcases the traditional folk art of the Spanish settlers (and their descendants) who arrived in Santa Fe in the 1500s. (There is also Contemporary Spanish Market, which is set up in the adjacent streets and is a venue for descendants of Spanish settlers who work in non-traditional mediums to exhibit and sell their art.) There is lots of religious art- my favorite are boltos (round carvings of saints). Other traditional crafts include weaving, tinwork, ironwork, furniture-makers, straw-appliqué, potters, colcha embroiders and more. As with Indian Market, collectors come from all over.
  4. Wine and Chile Fiesta This is a five-day event culminating in a food and wine extravaganza, The Grand Food and Wine Tasting, up at the Santa Fe Opera- a spectacular venue. I love this one in principal as I love food. However, working for hotels since I have been in Santa Fe, I am never off when the big Saturday event takes place. Maybe this year. Tickets go on sale July 6th (and pretty much off-sale). Last year demand was so great the web site crashed. So, if my fingers are quick, maybe I can go this year. Chefs from 60 Santa Fe restaurants serve tastings of signature dishes and 90 wineries are there to pour. And don’t worry about drinking and driving, there is shuttle service to and from the Opera. Earlier in the week, restaurants host wine dinners, there are “Guest Chef Luncheons, cooking demos, wine seminars and even a field trip/luncheon and an auction of rare wines.
  5. The Santa Fe Opera’s 2009 season opens in early July and runs to the end of August. This is world-class opera and aficionados come from afar. The good seats sell out early. I love the whole experience, the opera itself, the venue, which is an architectural gem set to take in the incredible views and sunsets and the attendant pageantry. In a town where people rarely dress up, black-tie is not unusual here and neither are jeans. People wear everything and anything. For on-site dining options there is an Opera buffet, which has limited seating and sells out early, but I love tailgating. Dinners go from simple picnics to elegant candlelight affairs and if you don’t want to hassle, there is a catering company that sells box dinners (you order in advance).
  6. The Chamber Music Festival takes part during the Opera season. Smart scheduling as they attract many of the same people to town. I love to go to concerts at the Saint Francis Auditorium (part of the New Mexico Museum of Art). It’s a great place to hear a concert. The choice of music is eclectic, from Baroque to 21st century and the performers are top-notch.
  7. Santa Fe Film Festival held in early December (2009 Dec 2-6) showcases a broad selection of films from full-length Hollywood entrees to shorts to documentaries. There are entrees from all over the world. In 2008 I was able to see “Sunshine Cleaning Company,” before it hit the theaters. They also had “Doubt” and I’m sure a few others that I don’t remember plus a lot of films that are interesting and will almost never be seen in theaters. In 2007, I saw a few great films including “The Walker,” which I loved. I am a Woody Harrelson fan- what can I say. While not Cannes or Sundance, there are a smattering of well-known names and faces and the whole thing is fun. If you get the All Festival Pass you can attend all the parties, concerts etc.
  8. Christmas Eve in Santa Fe and indeed the entire holiday season is wonderful. Downtown, buildings are decorated with greenery and the electrified, plastic farolitos that have replaced the traditional sand-filled bags with candles. They look beautiful, and if it happens to snow- fairyland. On Christmas Eve from about 6:00 PM until 10:00 Canyon Road is closed to auto traffic and becomes a sea of people. Here you will see the traditional sand-filled farolitos and piñon bonfires light up the road. People spontaneously burst into Carols and some stores stay open and even offer hot cider or hot chocolate. It is kind of like NYC’s Easter Parade, but colder and funkier. Christmas Eve also traditionally brings a few concerts and mid-night Mass at Saint Francis Cathedral is jammed to the rafters.
  9. Indian Dances The Pueblo Indians have Feast Days with religious dances throughout the year. These often coincide with Catholic holidays. Many of these are open to the public and if you are here when there are dances, go. They are religious ceremonies and there is an etiquette that visitor’s are expected to adhere to. One New Year’s Day we went to the dances at Ohkay Owingeh and I was drawn into the dance by the clowns. I didn’t dare say “no,” from fear of offending and it was an amazing experience. For a schedule contact the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center.
  10. Desfile de los Niños is the children’s and pets’ parade held the Saturday of Fiesta week. Everyone dresses up and it is a hoot. Arrive early to get a good curbside vantage point. The parade departs from and returns to the Cathedral.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

MY TEN FAVORITE PLACES TO VISIT IN SANTA FE

I want to share My Ten Favorite Places to visit in the Santa Fe area (and it was hard to get the list down to ten). I had to leave out some great ones. Another time.

1. Puye Cliffs because there is a great sense of history there. I love climbing the cliff and going into the caves and for me sitting on the mesa is transformational.

2. Bandelier National Monument Because the ride up there is really scenic- don’t miss the view at White Rock. Bandelier itself has a Visitor’s Center staffed by knowledgeable Rangers and lots of hiking trails. The loop trail goes past two cliff dwelling sites- the second features some petroglyphs. Then back to the Visitor’s Center. The adventurous can hike up the trail to The Alcove House, a ceremonial chamber accessible up 4 vertical ladders and some stone stairs. I have not been up there- I don’t do heights well. But I have it first-hand that it is worth the effort. You can spend an hour at Bandelier, the whole day or even camp out.

3. Tsankawi (actually part of Bandelier, but at a different location east of Bandelier on Rte 4). What I find really neat about Tsankawi is that it is not the least bit commercial and does not get crowded. When we went we saw a Ranger and one other hiker. There is a circular trail that takes you to the top of the mesa, past the ruins of an old Pueblo, down a ladder to the cliff dwellings and back to the starting point via a fairly narrow ledge.

4. Tent Rocks (Kasha Katuwe) is a great place for a hike for anyone- our grandson made it triumphantly to the top when he was aged six. These are geological formations caused by volcanic activity millions of years ago. They get their name from the conically shaped rocks. The walk through the slit canyon is magical. It is called a “slit canyon” because it is very narrow. So narrow in places that you can reach out and touch the both sides simultaneously and the 360° views at the top are not to be missed.

5. Taos Pueblo for the history. The Pueblo elders will not divulge their history due to religious constraints, but say the current-day buildings may date back a thousand years. Taos is considered by some to be the oldest continuously inhabited community in the United States. The residents of the historic buildings live without modern conveniences such as electricity and running water. I was privileged to be invited to a meal in one of the historic Pueblo in 1973 when I spent two-weeks camped out there. I was virtually adopted by one of the families. I later discovered that this was a great honor. I had no idea at the time. I am humbled in retrospect.

6. Acoma Sky City is the other currently occupied, historically significant pueblo. Occupation here dates to circa 1150 AD and their web site states that they are the oldest continuously inhabited community in North America. Whether the honor goes to Taos or Acoma, they are both worth a visit. At Acoma, you must go with a tour-guide. You are taken in a van from the Visitor’s Center to the pueblo on top of the mesa. The tour lasts about 1¼. The Acoma people are world-renown for their wonderful painted pottery and visitors have an opportunity to purchase pots directly from the Pueblo artisans atop the mesa. For lunch, visit the Yaak’ Café (Yaak’ means "corn" in Keres, the traditional language of the Acoma). Here you can experience traditional Acoma dishes or for those with an unadventurous palate or for kids, there is American fare.

7. Fort Union was established in 1851 to watch over the Santa Fe Trail an important trade route from Missouri. During its forty-year history, it functioned as a military garrison, territorial arsenal, and military supply depot for the southwest. It was abandoned when the railroad made it obsolete. The site offers a 1.6-mile loop-trail around the ruins. There are standing adobe walls and foundations from many of the former structures and there are explanations and photos at each of the ghostly building remains. You get a feeling the people and the life they led. I loved it here. You develop sympathy for the military wives who were brought to this remote, dusty outpost and brought their possessions including hard-to-transport pianos. Fort Union also has the largest accessible network of wheel-ruts from the Santa Fe Trail.

8. Pecos National Historic Park contains the ruins of the Pecos Pueblo, inhabited into the 19th Century. Habitation in the area dates back thousands of years. The site has a circular trail that goes past kivas from the Pueblo and the ruins of a Spanish Colonial church. The Visitor’s Center offers interpretative walks spring through fall. While in Pecos, check out the Pecos Wilderness .
9. El Rancho de los Golondrinas a living history village close to Santa Fe offers visitors a journey into New Mexico’s past. “The Ranch of the Swallows" now a living history museum, dates from the early 1700s and was an important paraje or stopping point along the famous Camino Real, (the Royal Road) from Mexico City to Santa Fe. Open from June to October (from April by appointment) the best time to go is weekends when there are docents demonstrating the life-skill of the times and when there is apt to be a festival

10. Ghost Ranch and Echo Amphitheater are located just north of Abiquiu. Made famous by artist Georgia O’Keeffe, it is also known by geologists and paleontologists as a place of rich fossil and dinosaur bone finds and rocks here date from about 228 million years. According to the University of New Mexico web site rocks have been found in New Mexico that date back 1.5 billion years. While up in that area, check out Echo Amphitheater a bit farther up the road. This National Forest Service facility includes a short hiking trail, a picnic area and a campsite. The sandstone walls, hollowed out by ages of erosion resonate. You call out “Hello,” and you hear “Hello, hello, hello, hello” echoed back to you. What can I say; I am a kid at heart. I love it here.

I hope that this list will inspire you to visit Santa Fe. Besides the treasures mentioned above, we have great hotels, restaurants, museums, galleries, shopping, outdoor activities and more. To figure out the places that work for you, contact me at concierge@thesanatfetraveler.com or visit our web site at www.thesantafetraveler.com .

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Welcome to my new blog. I will mostly be blogging about my adopted hometown, Santa Fe, New Mexico, but you never know what side-trips I might take. Stay tuned.
I am a concierge with my own newly launched personal concierge and trip management service called The Santa Fe Traveler. After a life of many careers, with an emphasis on sales and marketing, I have finally found my passion. I love helping people, I love research and I love Santa Fe. Being a concierge may seem repetitive to some, but everyone is different and the challenge for me is to match travelers up with the places and activities that work for them, not boiler-plate it and send all to the same places. That would make my life boring- and that is the last thing I want to be.
Anyway, when I was a hotel concierge, the three most common personal questions guests asked were:
Where are you from? (I have a decided east coast accent.)
Do you like it here? (I love it.)
What made you come here?
The last is the question I will answer here. On a visit to Santa Fe in 1985, I was sitting atop the Puye Cliffs and I felt as if I had come home. When we returned to New York, my husband, Steve, and both agreed in a spontaneous conversation, that we would like to live in the southwest- no discussion needed. Our son was twelve at the time and we felt that it would be hard for him to adjust to a new situation on the cusp of adolescence, so we decided to wait until he was out of high school to move. When that day came, I owned a boutique in Rhinebeck, NY and loved what I was doing- it wasn’t the time to move. On a trip to Colorado in 1994, we almost bought a house. I had been in real estate and decided that it was insane to buy a house before selling ours. Turned out to be a good decision for a number of reasons. There was a housing down-turn in the Hudson Valley and it took us 18 months to sell the house, it turns out in retrospect that I would have hated living in that small, charming town, and there were no employment opportunities in the area. We put out house on the market, I arranged to close my store (it was my baby and I could not bear to sell it) and we waited and waited and waited until the house sold. Our first destination was Fort Collins, CO- my husband’s sister lived in the area. We really wanted to come to Santa Fe, but could not figure out how to make money there. Fort Collins was the three-year plan- eight years later we were still there. We decided it was time to get to Santa Fe and started making exploratory trips to the area. One dream we had was to manage a bed & breakfast. We had no experience, just a love of small inns and an inner knowing that the hospitality business was a good fit for both of us. We connected with the owners of the Hacienda Doña Andrea, in the former mining town of Cerrillos, south of Santa Fe. At first they were reluctant to hire us as we had no experience, but we are pretty convincing and they gave us a chance. Steve was the chef and I was the hospitality manager. We loved it! Nine months later, Steve had a chance to partner in a small café so we left the inn. I got a job as a concierge at a Santa Fe hotel, the Inn and Spa at Loretto and the rest in history.

Top ten reasons I live in and love Santa Fe
1. Everything but the ocean (One of the few things I really miss here- the
other is greenery- there is none)
2. The mountain views
3. The sunsets
4. An amazing amount of culture: music (opera, chamber music etc), art,
museums, galleries etc.
5. Food- Lots of great restaurants, Farmer’s Market, accesses to organics
6. The architecture- love those pueblo and Territorial houses.
7. The natural color palette- those sands and pinks, reds and purples
8. The clean air- see #9
9. The quiet- not having a major airport in town helps- ABQ is only manageable
hour away
10. The history

WELCOME

Welcome to my new blog. After a life of many careers, with an emphasis on sales and marketing, I have finally found my passion. I love helping people, I love research and I love Santa Fe. Being a concierge may seem repetitive to some, but everyone is different and the challenge for me is to match travelers up with the places and activities that work for them, not boiler-plate it and send all to the same places. That would make my life boring- and that is the last thing I want to be. I will mostly be blogging about my adopted hometown, Santa Fe, New Mexico, but you never know what side-trips I might take. Stay tuned.